to a case of BORDEAUX!
For our special Bordeaux issue, we’ve
put together a selection of 12 restaurants,
regional dishes and wines under $10.
His wife, Anne-Marie, is the daughter of celebrated chef Pierre
Troisgros, but Yves Gravelier is not interested in riding on
his father-in-laws coattails. And hes talented enough
not to have to. Restaurant Gravelier has become one of the most
popular eateries in Bordeaux, particularly for fish. The prix-fixe
menusa real bargain at 22.87 and 30.49 eurosfeature
such innovative dishes as parmentier de crabe et Saint-Jacques,
topinambour et beurre de cacahuètes (Jerusalem artichoke
with peanut butter); filet de bar aux coquillages et crème
au citron (filet of bass with shellfish and lemon cream
sauce), roasted cod with a lemony "sauce nerveuse."
Ten years old now, the restaurant underwent a complete makeover
last September. Good food and word of mouth took care of the
rest. "When we renovated, we were finally able to create
something that really represented us, and we attracted a new
clientele," says Anne-Marie. "The place looked so
dated beforeour poor restaurant was hidden away behind
its décor!" The gamble seems to have paid off: Gravelier
is packed these days, and with good reason.
Restaurant Gravelier, 114 cours de Verdun, 33000 Bordeaux.
—Léon Mazzella, author and editor of GaultMillau
Jean-Pierre Xiradakis, renowned chef
and proprietor of La
Tupina restaurant in Bordeaux and author of several wine
When I was a child in the countryside, my grandmother would
sit down on a bench outside the window and kill a chicken for
Sunday dinner. Shed collect the blood in a dish containing
some garlic, parsley and finely chopped pork belly. This mixture
would coagulate into a little pancake about half an inch thick.
My grandmother would heat up a bit of duck fat and gently slide
the sanguette into the pan. After cooking it for about
five minutes on each side, shed season it with plenty
of salt and freshly ground pepper and transfer it to a plate.
Then shed deglaze the pan with a bit of wine vinegar and
pour the sauce over the sanguette.
Sanguette persillade may not be haute cuisine, but for
me it conjures up all sorts of wonderful memories of a bygone
way of life in the country.
WINE UNDER $10
CADILLAC LESGOURGUES 1998
30% Cabernet Sauvignon
This wine has a beautiful deep ruby color and a fine nose
with ripe cherry notes. It offers a well-balanced palate with
an elegant, woody finish.
For information on where to purchase Château Cadillac Lesgourgues
in the United States, contact firstname.lastname@example.org
or call (212) 924-1414.