This extremely popular restaurant is located in a residential neighborhood in Cenon, outside Bordeaux. The colorful decor, particularly on the covered patio overlooking the garden, may not be to everyone’s taste. And the branches, twigs and leaves that garnish all the dishes, from appetizers to dessert, are a bit much. But those are mere details; what counts is the outstanding cuisine. I recently enjoyed an incredibly thick, firm and flavorful piece of sole. This memorable dish was accompanied by a meat and smoked bacon jus and followed a foie gras terrine, crisp artichokes flavored with licorice, and country bread. Other highlights include the beef cheeks with smoked foie gras, red peppers and potato chips and the mullet served on a crab and goat cheese waffle seasoned with coriander. Be sure to save room for dessert: The rum-drenched coulant au chocolat noir served with pepper-spiked ice cream is not to be missed. Finally, the wine list is far from conservative, venturing beyond Bordeaux and including a fair number of organic wines. La Cape’s prix-fixe menus--19 euros for two courses, 27 euros with dessert and 29 euros if you have cheese as well--are unbeatable, considering the quality of the ingredients and the flawless manner in which they are prepared.

These delicious little white beans used to grow in cornfields. Thanks to the tenacity and dedication of a number of growers, they now have an appelation d’origine controllée.

Haricots tarbais can naturally be served as a side dish for, say, a good leg of lamb, with some carrots, onions and diced ham mixed in for flavor. However, they also make a good cold salad; just add a little truffle oil or chive vinaigrette. If you serve them cold, try topping them with a slice of fresh foie gras. Delicious!