to a case of BORDEAUX!
For our special Bordeaux issue, we’ve
put together a selection of 12 restaurants,
regional dishes and wines under $10.
This extremely popular restaurant is located in a residential
neighborhood in Cenon, outside Bordeaux. The colorful decor,
particularly on the covered patio overlooking the garden, may
not be to everyone’s taste. And the branches, twigs and leaves
that garnish all the dishes, from appetizers to dessert, are
a bit much. But those are mere details; what counts is the outstanding
cuisine. I recently enjoyed an incredibly thick, firm and flavorful
piece of sole. This memorable dish was accompanied by a meat
and smoked bacon jus and followed a foie gras terrine,
crisp artichokes flavored with licorice, and country bread.
Other highlights include the beef cheeks with smoked foie gras,
red peppers and potato chips and the mullet served on a crab
and goat cheese waffle seasoned with coriander. Be sure to save
room for dessert: The rum-drenched coulant au chocolat noir
served with pepper-spiked ice cream is not to be missed. Finally,
the wine list is far from conservative, venturing beyond Bordeaux
and including a fair number of organic wines. La Cape’s prix-fixe
menus--19 euros for two courses, 27 euros with dessert and 29
euros if you have cheese as well--are unbeatable, considering
the quality of the ingredients and the flawless manner in which
they are prepared.
9 allée de la Morlette, 33150 Cenon. Tel. 33/5-57-80-24-25.
—Léon Mazzella, author and editor
Jean-Pierre Xiradakis, renowned chef
and proprietor of La
Tupina restaurant in Bordeaux and author of several wine
These delicious little white beans used to grow in cornfields.
Thanks to the tenacity and dedication of a number of growers,
they now have an appelation dorigine controllée.
Haricots tarbais can naturally be served as a side dish
for, say, a good leg of lamb, with some carrots, onions and
diced ham mixed in for flavor. However, they also make a good
cold salad; just add a little truffle oil or chive vinaigrette.
If you serve them cold, try topping them with a slice of fresh
foie gras. Delicious!
WINE UNDER $10
VIEUX GREAN 1998
Côtes de Castillon
30% Cabernet Sauvignon
This aromatic wine, produced by a vineyard in the Saint-Emilion
region, has a superb color, a charming, robust nose and a
supple mouthfeel. It should be drunk young.
For information on where to purchase Château Vieux Gréan
1998 in the United States, contact firstname.lastname@example.org
or call (212) 924-1414.