Nelly and Denis Franc, the proprietors of Le Pavillon des Boulevards, not only seem immune to the ravages of time but are also completely unflappable. They’ve earned themselves a devoted clientele and long ago hit a comfortable stride that is the envy of many competitors. The affable Nelly greets guests in a dining room cleverly decorated with wonderful paintings and sculptures depicting both the female form (of the round, Boteroesque variety) and the world of gastronomy. The combination of her graciousness and Denis’s remarkable creativity makes this one of the top restaurants in the area.

The tasting menus are a big hit; you leave everything up to the chef, who tailors the meal to your personality—or what he can divine of it. Each square green plate holds a new surprise, for both the eyes and the palate: beet mousse with pistachio oil and beet chips; red bean soup with green apple and boudin ravioli; braised filet of sea bream with lemony herbs, bulgur risotto and squid tempura; Pauillac lambchops with a purée of peas, fresh mint, liver and sweetbreads; sheep cheese curds with black cherry preserves; a coconut milk and pineapple shake…. There are always two ingredients—parmesan and fig, licorice and pork rinds—whose bold, lingering flavors transform the dish into something truly special. The superb wine list does justice to the cuisine, and the sommelier is as friendly as he is knowledgeable.

Traditionally associated with Mardi Gras, these delicious fritters are found all over southwestern France. There are numerous variations on the recipe, but the basic ingredients are flour, butter and eggs. I make mine with rum, vanilla and orange zest; other typical flavorings include lemon zest, cognac and orange blossom water. Merveilles are merveilleuses because they prove that you can make your whole family happy and give the kids a treat with little more than flour and butter.