I absolutely love this place. With his wife, Marie, who manages the dining room with the utmost efficiency, Stéphane Ouvrard has attained a level of success worthy of his considerable talents. Stéphane is hip and cheerful in a white T-shirt and navy blue apron, a glass of menthe à l’eau in hand, and Marie was cut from a similar cloth. "There’s no regular menu here," he explains. "Everything depends on what’s available at the market on any given day; I simply adapt." "Still," counters Marie, "there are dishes that turn up again and again and end up becoming classics." Examples include sea scallops with pan-fried onions and lentils and a rabbit kidney casserole with foie gras and mashed potatoes. At the Père Ouvrard, customers get up from their table to select their wine themselves; lunch at this laid-back bistro is also self-service, buffet-style. The masterfully prepared cuisine combines the freshest ingredients from land and sea. It is served in an inviting decor featuring lots of wood, a Provençal palette and an indoor garden dominated by an olive tree, beneath a skylight that can be removed in a matter of seconds. And to top it all off, there’s Marie’s friendly welcome, making this place an all-around best bet.

Cod is a truly authentic regional dish in Bordeaux, since nearby Bègles has long been known for its cod-drying facilities, a few of which are still in operation.

Soaking the cod to remove the salt requires some patience. In my opinion, the best way to prepare the fish is to poach it in water for 15 minutes then drain it well. Sauté some minced garlic in olive oil and pour the mixture, while still very hot, over the cod. Serve with boiled baby potatoes.

The water used to poached the fish can be turned into a soup; simply add some grated potato and a little olive oil, then season to taste.