Whenever you have the good fortune of discovering something that is unusually rare and wonderful—a novel, a work of art, a piece of music—it’s only natural to want to share it with friends, to help them see in it what you do. When you are especially passionate about its virtues, it can become an obsession of sorts. That’s how I feel about Alsace Riesling, which I think is the most lamentably under-appreciated of France’s greatest wines. This bothers me so much that I’ve been badgering friends about it for years. They’ve always taken it graciously—it probably helps that my diatribe comes with a glass of delicious wine.
    Fortunately for those of us who do appreciate Alsace Rieslings, their lack of popularity means they are tremendously underpriced. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, top Rieslings were prized—and priced—as highly as the best bottlings of Burgundy and Bordeaux. Today, Riesling no longer plays in that prestigious league, and even among white wines, sales consistently lag behind Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris/Grigio.
    This is not because of a decline in quality. I’m confident that most experts would agree that the Rieslings produced around the world—in France, Australia, Austria and Germany—during the past 20 years are the best ever made. The problem lies elsewhere; namely, in the fickle arena of fashion.
    Trends in vinous fashion have been running in a drier direction for decades, and Riesling, like Port, has suffered as a consequence. This is unfortunate in both cases but especially unfair to Riesling, which often isn’t sweet at all and in fact is usually dry. German Rieslings are the exception, and even they have been getting drier during the past 15 years. Still, Riesling hasn’t been able to shed the stigma of its reputed sweetness, which leads many con-sumers to the mistaken conclusion that it is an old-fashioned dessert wine, ill-suited as an aperitif or as a partner to savory foods.
    Recent fashions in wine have also favored big, oaky, alcoholic wines. This adds up to three strikes against Riesling, which is almost always lean and light, and is very rarely made with any overt wood notes. Thankfully, the big bruiser fad seems to have peaked, and I see indications of a consumer backlash in the rise of light, fresh Pinot Grigio and explicitly “unoaked” Chardonnay. Riesling is well positioned to catch this wave and regain its proper place, which in my opinion is at the very top of the white-wine pyramid.
    I say this because no other grape varietal is so versatile, ages so well or is as capable of conveying the particular character of its place of origin. Riesling can excel as a bone-dry wine, an unctuous dessert wine and at every level of sweetness in between. Excellent examples are remarkably durable, improving for decades when properly cellared. And no other variety—white or red—can match Riesling’s ability to convey the subtle nuances of soil and climate that give great wines a sense of place.
    I would not relish the prospect of being limited to a single geographic source for my Riesling, but if forced to choose, I would pick Alsace. Top Rieslings from this region are more complex and age better than their counterparts from Austria and Australia, and whereas most German Rieslings need sweetness to counterbalance their abundant natural acidity, Alsace Rieslings can be harmonious even when made in a bone-dry style.
    So if Alsace Rieslings are such great wines, why aren’t they better known? The main reason is that they are relatively rare. Alsace is the only place in France where wine laws permit planting Riesling, and within Alsace, it is only one of seven vine varieties grown by winemakers (the others are Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Sylvaner).
    A novice might mistake Riesling for just another grape in this crowd, but almost every vintner I’ve interviewed regards it as Alsace’s most noble variety. Consequently, it is usually treated to prime sites within the region’s vineyards, and it manifests its greatness differently depending on the soils in which it is planted. It shows intensity and firm structure in granite soils, and a softer, richer profile in clay. Sandy soils produce wines that are light but mineral and elegant, whereas alluvial soils lend more body and lower acidity. Limestone conjures Rieslings that are especially restrained in their youth but supremely intricate and nuanced when mature.
    Alsatian Rieslings can also show a remarkable range of aromas and flavors, with fruit notes ranging from apple and citrus to stone fruits, along with accents of flowers, flint, freshly cut grass, fennel and honey. Of course, there’s no substitute for direct experience, so here are brief notes on my six favorite Riesling producers. Once you’ve tried them, I know you’ll want to tell your friends.

LÉON BEYER (Eguisheim)
Marc Beyer is a 13th-generation proprietor of this venerable family firm, and he makes exceedingly complex, impeccably dry Rieslings that are treasured by restaurateurs around the world. All of his Rieslings are lean and steely in their youth, adding depth and dimension with each passing year. The generic Riesling is remarkably consistent. The top bottlings, Comtes d’Eguisheim and Les Escaillers, are made only in great vintages and can improve for two decades. leonbeyer.com

ALBERT BOXLER (Niedermorschwihr)
Boxler is a family firm that crafts some of Alsace’s most exciting wines from grapes drawn entirely from its own 30 acres of vineyards. All Boxler Rieslings are very intense in flavor and are structured with an abundance of racy acidity. The range includes an excellent generic Riesling; a Reserve bottling made from young vines planted in Grand Cru vineyards; and Grand Cru wines from Brand and Sommerberg that are always among the best in Alsace. Tel. 33/3-89-27-11-32; Fax 33/3-89-27-70-14.

DIRLER-CADÉ (Bergholtz)
Working 38 acres of vines using biodynamic techniques, this house produces an excellent generic Riesling, a strongly mineral rendition from a lieu-dit called Belzbrunnen and several extraordinary cuvées from the Grand Cru vineyards in Spiegel, Saering and Kessler. These Rieslings are open and generously flavored but also seriously structured and capable of long aging. Tel. 33/3-89-76-91-00; Fax 33/3-89-76-85-97; E-mail: jpdirler@terre-net.fr.

F. E. TRIMBACH (Ribeauvillé)
Trimbach Rieslings are uncompromisingly dry. Although they can be bitingly acidic in their youth, they can also mature over decades to develop remarkably complex floral, fruit and mineral notes. The generic Riesling is very serious and consistent. Cuvée Frédéric-Emile is deeper and more concentrated but still quite taut. Clos Ste Hune is widely regarded as the world’s greatest dry Riesling, and the Clos Ste Hune Vendange Tardive couples greater richness with astonishing acidic balance. maison-trimbach.fr

DOMAINE WEINBACH (Kaysersberg)
Weinbach Rieslings have been models of purity and balance for decades, though recently the balance has shifted a bit toward the drier side of the spectrum under the talented guidance of winemaker Laurence Faller. Her Rieslings are all generously flavored despite being only slightly sweet, with Cuvée Théo, Sainte Catherine and Schlossberg achieving consistent excellence. Schlossberg Cuvée Sainte Catherine is often a striking wine showing an uncanny combination of restrained focus and profound depth. domaineweinbach.com

DOMAINE ZIND HUMBRECHT (Wintzenheim)
This extraordinary producer makes as many as 10 different Rieslings plus additional Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles cuvées. Fermentations are performed naturally with wild yeasts, sometimes concluding with quite notable sweetness in the finished wines. Top Bottlings: Brand, Clos Häuserer, Clos Windsbuhl, Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain. Tel. 33/3-89-27-02-05; Fax 33/3-89-27-22-58.